TP 369 
.52 

. B67 G66 
1872 
























































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BRIEF SKETCH 


OF 


GAIL BORDEN, 

AND HIS RELATIONS TO 


SOME FORMS OF CONCENTRATED FOOD. 


BA’ 

S. L. GOODALE, 

Secretary -jNIaiire Board of .A-griculture. 


PORTLAND, ME.: 

B. THURSTON & CO., PRINTERS. 


1872 . 




Haying enjoyed intimate acquaintance with the subject of this 
sketch, and being familiar with his unwearied labors, continued 
struggles, and alternate disappointments and successes, the writer 
has been led to pen what follows, partly in the hope that others 
might be encouraged to perseverance in well doing under difficul¬ 
ties, and partly, noting occasional denial of the credit believed to 
be due to him as an original discoverer, to supply some facts which 
may contribute to a just estimate. 

Saco, May, 1872. 






hr ?/ 


Gail Borden, widely known in connection with 
various forms of concentrated food, has a checkered 
and interesting history. 

lie was born 1801, of New England parents, in the 
town of Norwich, New York, the eldest of seven 
children. At an early age he assisted his father 
upon his farm, and profited, so far as practicable, by 
the limited educational privileges within, his reach. 

In December, 1814, his father removed to Cincin¬ 
nati, at or near which place he remained during the 
year following. At that time the site of Covington, 
Ky., opposite Cincinnati, was occupied as farm lands, 
and upon it were only two houses and a barn. With 
the aid of his brothers, Gail cultivated a field of corn 
where the City Hall now stands. 

In the spring of 1816 the family settled in the 
territory of Indiana, upon the banks of the Ohio, ten 
miles below Madison, where Gail lived until twenty- 
one years of age. Ilis health, meantime, becoming 
seriously impaired so that his physicians despaired of 
his recovery, he determined to try a southern cli- 


4 


A BEIEF SKETCH 


mate. In pursuance of this plan lie went ns super¬ 
cargo of a flat-boat to New Orleans, and haying dis¬ 
posed of the cargo he went into a piney woods dis¬ 
trict of Mississippi, and at first engaged in teaching. 
In this healthful region, with care and abstemious 
living, his health was restored. Here he was ap¬ 
pointed County Surveyor, and also Deputy United 
States Surveyor. Having married, he removed to 
Texas in 1829, his father and father-in-law with their 
families, preceding him thither. 

His first employment was farming and stock grow¬ 
ing. He was elected a delegate from La Yaca district 
to the convention held in 1833, at San Felipe, to 
define the position of the colonies, and to petition 
the Mexican government for separation from the 
State of Coahuila. 

Appointed by Gen. Austin to superintend the offi¬ 
cial surveys, he compiled the first topographical map 
of the colonies, and up to the time of the Mexican 
invasion had charge of the Land Office at San Felipe, 
under direction of Samuel M. Williams, then Colonial 
Secretary. 

As the war came on which led to a separation from 
Mexico, Mr. Borden, with two others, procured a press 
and printing materials, and published the only news- 



OF GAIL BORDEN. 


5 


paper issued in Texas during the war. He had its 
chief management, and directed his efforts towards 
resisting the establishment of the Central government 
by Santa Anna. 

The Republic of Texas being at length founded 
and revenue departments established, Mr. Borden was 
appointed by President Houston first Collector of the 
port of Galveston; which city, up to 1837, had not 
been laid out. Mr. Borden made the first surveys of 
the city, prior to taking charge of the customs, in 
June of that year. His first dwelling there was a 
rough board structure, on the bay shore, erected by 
two carpenters in half a day. His office was in a 
room in what was known as the Mexican custom¬ 
house, which was occupied in part as a dwelling by 
the military commandant of the post (Col. Turner) 
with his family. 

In 1839 he was appointed agent of the Galveston 

City Company, a corporation holding several thousand 

acres on which the city is built. This position he 

held for over twelve years. Towards the close of 

this period his attention was drawn to the urgent 

need of more suitable food supplies for the emigrants * 

and travelers across the plains, the want of which in- 

♦ 

volved great suffering, and even loss of life. 


6 


A BRIEF SKETCH 


Ilis experimental labors with this end in view, re¬ 
sulted in the production of a a meat biscuit/’ to which 
reference will again be made. Its merits were soon 
so fully recognized, that he felt warranted in embark¬ 
ing all his means in its extensive manufacture, and 
he did so. Just as success seemed almost assured, he 
was thrown into serious embarrassments through the 
artful plottings of parties interested in the very 
profitable furnishing of the ordinary bulky supplies 
for the army, and who deemed their craft imperiled 
by the threatened substitution of a new food, at once 
cheap, portable and nutritious beyond comparison. 
From the unequal contest thus commenced, Mr. Bor¬ 
den emerged penniless, and with his native endow¬ 
ments only in possession, began anew the battle of 
life. 

Going North directly upon the issue of his late 
enterprise, which, however disastrous it may appear 
from the stand-point most frequently occupied, was 
nevertheless a decided success from another point of 
view, what could be more natural than that his 
thoughts should turn to the preservation of milk? 

4 Milk is universally conceded to be the most perfect 
single article of food to be found in the whole realm 
of nature,—the only natural product perfectly fitted 


OF GAIL BOUDEN. 


7 


to sustain life. In the best possible proportions pure 
milk combines all those flesh-forming, beat-support¬ 
ing, force-yielding constituents needful to healthy 
growth and the development of a perfect physique; 
yet no other food is so perishable in its nature, nor 
was any other so difficult of access in large cities in 
normal purity and freshness. Shameless dilution or 
adulteration so frequently attended the article sold, 
that a strictly honest milkman is even now deemed a 
mythical personage by many citizens, rather than one 
having a bona fide existence in their midst. Num¬ 
berless thousands of infants in the great cities of the 
world have undoubtedly perished who might have 
been reared had milk been supplied in its freshness 
and pristine goodness. To the adult dweller in cities, 
to the soldier in camp, and to the sailor upon the 
ocean, what a boon would its furnishing be! Mr. 
Borden promptly recognized the obvious and urgent 
need, and determined to supply it,—if he could. 

Nor can it be thought strange that, in casting about 
for methods by which to solve the problem, he should 
seek to turn to account some of the lessons taught 
him by the results of his various tentative manipula¬ 
tions in connection with the meat biscuit. Foremost 
among the lessons then learned w\as that to resist the 


8 


A BRIEF SKETCH 


beginnings of evil is sometimes as useful in conduct¬ 
ing physical jDrocesses as in directing moral actions. 
Although he knew nothing of the “germ theory,” 
and little of other hypotheses, he had come to have 
a wholesome dread of incipient decomposition, and 
rightly judged that if he could prevent its beginning, 
its progress would make small inroads upon his prod¬ 
ucts. 

The object at which he aimed took a sharply defined 
form at the very outset, namely, to accomplish the 
preservation of milk by the simple removal of water, 
accompanied by security against the occurrence of 
possible detriment from the time when the milk was 
drawn from the cow until the process was completed. 
He was aware that numerous attempts had been made 
to preserve and to solidify milk, as well as to find ac¬ 
ceptable substitutes for it, and he knew, also, or be¬ 
lieved, that all had proved failures, greater or less; 
certainly he found no products which made a near 
approach to such excellence as he believed to be at¬ 
tainable. 

Scientific friends, one of whom ranked as the peer 
of any in the land, advised him that his aim, in one 
respect, was too high,—that the retention of all the 
butter, uninjured, in connection with the other solid 




OF GAIL BORDEN. 9 

constituents of milk, would be found unattainable in 
practice, and that the removal of a part of the cream 
would be found a necessary preliminary step ; but he 
utterly discarded the thought of condensing “ skim ” 
milk, and pushed on regardless of the advice, perse¬ 
vering with indomitable will and energy until his 
object was fully attained. 

Recognition of its merits, and reception by the 
public, came, however, by halting and toilsome steps, 
until 1861, when the civil war made it quickly and 
extensively known, so that the demand rapidly in¬ 
creased until it exceeded the supply. 

Pecuniary, as well as manufacturing success, in due 
time crowned his labors ; and uncounted thousands of 
soldiers, in camp and in hospital,—of citizens, both 
well and ill,—of city-born infants, pining for pure 
milk fit for babes, hold its inventor and manufact¬ 
urer in grateful remembrance and esteem; and if we 
attempt to estimate the value of his achievement, 
taking into account the increasing number of children 
annually born in our large cities (which are growing 
faster than the rural districts), and the larger propor¬ 
tion of them who will, in consequence of his discov¬ 
ery, grow up to manhood and womanhood, healthy 
and strong by reason of a supply of pure milk in 


2 


10 


A BRIEF SKETCH 




place of the dilute and adulterate trash, or the vile 
secretion of diseased cows fed upon distillery slops, 
so often sold for 66 pure country milk; ” and these 
children in their turn to become fathers and mothers 
of our race, the benefits conferred by it enlarge 
immeasurably. 

Since Mr. Borden’s claim to be the original discov¬ 
erer of the only process for condensing milk which 
has received universal approval and exclusive adop¬ 
tion, both in this country and in Europe has been 
doubted by some and denied by others, it may be 
well to introduce enough of the facts pertaining to 
its history to place the matter at rest.* 

After testing various methods, and carefully ob¬ 
serving their several results, Mr. Borden became 
convinced that protection from injurious atmospheric 
influences during the process of evaporation was an 
essential requisite to the highest degree of success. 

But he found that serious difficulties were at once 
encountered in the attempt to carry this method into 
practical operation; a very troublesome one being 
adhesion of the albuminous constituent of the milk 


*For such a denial, and its easy refutation by a simple comparison of 
dates, see Appendix A. 




OF GAIL BORDEN". 


11 


to the inner surface of the vacuum pan; besides 
which, the foaming of the milk under the lessened 
pressure (involving liability to sudden loss by boiling 
over) was such that an experienced sugar boiler, ob¬ 
serving his attempts with hope to render assistance, 
pronounced the method utterly impracticable for the 
evaporation of milk, and his persistence in trying to 
employ it to be sheer folly. These and kindred dif¬ 
ficulties, however, by dint of perseverance, aided by 
that fertility of resource so characteristic of the 
American pioneer, whether in the primeval forests or 
in the unexplored domain of art and science, were 
at length surmounted. He then felt warranted in 
proceeding to take the necessary steps to secure an 
ownership in the invention. 

His first application for a patent was made in 
May, 1853. A principal feature of his process was 

declared to be evaporation in vacuo. The import- 

« 

ance of protecting the milk from atmospheric action 
in order to prevent incipient decomposition was em¬ 
phatically asserted in that first application, and has 
been held with tenacity ever since; his views with 
regard to its importance having undergone no 
change, either in theory or practice. This applica¬ 
tion was refused; various reasons being given for 


12 


A BKIEF SKETCn 


the refusal, chiefly because it lacked the essential 
requisites of novelty and usefulness. 

Prior to his application for a patent Mr. Borden 
had not the remotest idea that any one had antici¬ 
pated him in conceiving of the use of the vacuum 
process for the concentration of milk, although he 
was aware of its use in the treatment of syrups in 
refining sugar, and in the preparation of extracts. 
For these purposes it was employed, because it en¬ 
abled evaporation to proceed at a low temperature, 
thereby avoiding discoloration or burning. Borden’s 
employment of it was for a wholly different pur¬ 
pose.* 

But upon examination it appeared that one Grim- 
wade had previously conceived the idea, and had 
planned an apparatus for carrying it into effect, 
which much resembled Mr. Borden’s, and had ap- 


* In his application, Mr. Borden says: 

“I am aware that sugar, aud various extracts, have been and are now 
concentrated in vacuo under a low degree of heat, to prevent discoloration 
or burning. I do not claim concentrating milk in a vacuum pan for such 
a purpose; my object being to exclude the air from the beginning of the 
process to the end, to prevent incipient decomposition. This is important, 
and I claim the discovery.” 

The claim,—U. S. Patent, Aug., 1856,—is in the following words: 

“ Producing concentrated sweet milk by evaporation in vacuo , substan¬ 
tially as set forth,—the same having no sugar or other foreign matter 
mixed with it.” 



OF GAIL BORDEN. 


13 


plied for a patent. It equally appeared, however, 
that the process was never practiced, and probably 
the conception was never embodied. Satisfactory 
evidence of this is found in the fact that he subse¬ 
quently applied for and obtained a patent for a 
wholly different process, an integral part of which 
was evaporation in open pans, which method he 
practiced for some years. The vacuum process in 
Grimwade’s mind probably never advanced beyond 
the abstract idea, accompanied with plans upon paper 
of apparatus for carrying it into operation. Either 
he did not attempt to carry it into execution, or find¬ 
ing himself unable to overcome the practical difficul¬ 
ties attending the process, he abandoned the attempt. 
He neither practiced it himself, nor did any one else 
under his patent. The conception fell still-born. 

The examination following his application also 
showed, that, a dozen years before Grimwade’s appli¬ 
cation, another had obtained a patent for a process of 
condensing milk by evaporation “ in any known 
mode,” # mentioning, among others, blowing warm 
air through the milk, or by external warmth in con¬ 
nection with the vacuum pan; no preference being 


* Could the applicant expect thus to cover and include in his patent all 
future improvements in methods of evaporation? 




14 


A BRIEF SKETCH 


indicated for one mode over another; nor is there 
any intimation that exclusion of air. during evapora¬ 
tion is desirable, but clearly the reverse. Diligent 
search by Mr. Borden’s patent attorney in London, in 
1853 (Mr. Barlow, of Chancery Lane), failed to dis¬ 
cover the slightest indication that any one had ever 
worked a vacuum pan for evaporating milk under 
any patent. Thus the objection to granting a patent 
because the process lacked novelty was disposed of 
with comparative ease; but it proved a more difficult 
task to convince the Commissioner that it possessed 
such merit as to come within the designation of both 
“new and useful invention or discovery.” In the 
second or third rejection, acting Commissioner Shu- 
gart says: ‘*You allege great importance to working 
entirely in vacuum. This office does not have any 
faith in such an allegation.” The opinion seemed 
firmly rooted in the minds of both the examiners 
and the Commissioner that the conceded superiority 
of the article shown by Mr. Borden as the product 
of his method was the result, not of any peculiar 
excellence in the process employed, but of greater 
care or superior skill in manipulation, and that like 
excellence could be reached with equal facility by 
any other method of evaporation. 


OF GAIL BOLDEN. 


15 


Under a later date. Commissioner Mason wrote as 
follows: “Borden claims evaporation in vacuo to be 
the valuable feature of his discovery, and necessary. 
The Commissioner sees no reason to believe this.” 
And again: “If it were really a discovery, Borden 
would be entitled to a patent, but I see nothing from 
which I can conclude that this exclusion of air is 
important. If it were shown to me that milk taken 
fresh from the cow and evaporated in the open air 
would not answer substantially the same purpose as 
when evaporated in vacuo , I would certainly grant to 
Mr. Borden the patent he asks; but until this is 
done, I do not. feel justified in allowing it.” 

Upon the reception of this opinion Mr. Borden 
proceeded to obtain the necessary evidence, and pre- 
sented it in the form of affidavits from several emi¬ 
nent scientific and practical men, including Mr. Mac- 
' farlane, of the Scientific American, and Mr. John II. 
Currie, of the Bellemont Laboratory, who, at Mr. 
Borden’s instance, undertook an investigation of the 
merits of the case. After condensing milk by all the 

w 

processes commonly in use, and carefully observing 
and comparing results, they became assured that the 
alleged discovery was both real and important, and 
unhesitatingly testified that no other method equaled 


16 


A BRIEF SKETCH 


that in vacuo ,—by evaporating the milk out of con¬ 
tact with the air. The presentation of this evidence 
of the usefulness of his discovery was shortly fol¬ 
lowed by the issue of the patent asked for, on the 
19th of Aug., 1856, more than three years after his 
first application, its date varying not widely from 
the sealing of his English patent.* 

The grant of the patent changed the field of Mr. 
Borden’s struggles, but did not lessen them. Next 
in order came the development of the invention 
into working for commercial results. 

For trivial aid rendered to him during his long 
siege at the Patent office, he had parted with three- 
eighths of his interest in the patent; and now, for 
the promise of the venture of means to erect works 
on a moderate scale, he was led to part with two- 
eighths more, leaving him little more than one-third. 
In this, too, he was destined to disappointment, as 
supplies were stopped when less than two thousand 
dollars had been advanced for that purpose. 

Without relating in detail the embarrassments 
which attended him at every stage, suffice it to say, 

•a* _ 

that, at length, Borden’s Condensed Milk was put 

*His English patent was taken out in the name of Isaac Westthorp,— 
dated Feb. 28tb, sealed August 26th, 1856. 



OF GAIL BORDER. 


17 


upon the market in a small way. Its early progress 
was very slow. A demand for it had to be created, 
and this was hindered by the prejudice which had 
arisen, naturally enough, in the minds of many 
against any condensed milk, due to the unsatisfac- 
ory quality of such as had previously been offered 
for sale. 

The first attempt to establish works was at \Vol- 
cottville, Litchfield county, Conn., in the summer of 
1856. But, disappointed in not obtaining means, 
nothing was there accomplished. A second attempt 
was made at Burrville, five miles distant, in 1857, by 
a company consisting of the owners of the patent,— 
Mr. Borden holding three-eighths. A small quantity 
of milk was here successfully condensed, and its in¬ 
troduction into New York began. Although admit 
ted by all to be superior to any before made, it was 
slow in meeting with sales proportioned in magni¬ 
tude to the expenses incurred. Yielding to the 
monetary revulsion of that year, the company sus¬ 
pended operations, leaving Mr. Borden liable for bills 

drawn on which he was sued. 

It was not until February, 1858, when Mr. Borden 
(with the other owners of the patent) associated 
himself with Jeremiah Milbank, Esq., who advanced 


3 


18 


A BRIEF SKETCH 


money to revive the business, that he could be said 
to enjoy adequate means to develop his invention; 
at which time the "New York Condensed Milk 
Company” was formed, and this, for reasons above 
indicated, progressed for a while very slowly. Aban¬ 
doning Burrville, the new company established 
works on a more extensive scale in a desirable 
locality at Wassaic, Duchess county, New York, 84 
miles from the city of New York, on the Harlem 
railroad, in 1860, soon after which the civil war 
caused the product to become quickly and exten¬ 
sively known, so that the demand rapidly increased, 
until it exceeded the supply. The establishment at 
Wassaic was, in consequence, repeatedly enlarged, 
and others erected. The "Borden Condensed Milk 
Company ” has very large works at Brewster’s sta¬ 
tion, also on the Harlem railroad, 54 miles from New 
York. One of the pans at this place is of unusual 
capacity, its average rate of condensing being two 
thousand quarts an hour. In 1865, extensive works 
were erected at Elgin, 42 miles from Chicago, Illinois. 
Of all these Mr. Borden now owns one-half. Other 
companies have been organized from time to time, 
to work under Borden’s patent, but the product 
known to the trade as the "Gail Borden Eagle 


OF GAIL BORDEN. 


19 


Brand/’ made at the three above-named places, 
greatly exceeds in amount all made by the others. 

With reference to the practical adoption of the 
vacuum process abroad, and the alleged indebtedness 
of the public "primarily to a Frenchman, though 
mainly to an Englishman,” for the only successful 
process of concentrating milk, it is a significant fact 
that the first establishment in Europe upon this plan, 
so far as known, was that of the Anglo-Swiss Com¬ 
pany, in the Canton of Zug, erected in 1866, which 
was engineered by Mr. G. H. Page, formerly of the 
Patent Office, who prepared himself for the under¬ 
taking by critical, personal inspection of Mr. Bor¬ 
den’s actual working at several of his establishments, 
and, to avoid mistakes, secured the services of the 
coppersmith who (with few exceptions) had done all 
of Mr. Borden’s work of this sort for years past,* thus 
availing himself at a grasp of the results of Mr. Bor¬ 
den’s long experience relative to the details of the 
arrangements of jackets, coils, pipes and valves in 
connection with the pan, which had been found best 
adapted to this work, and upon which the practical 


* The earliest letter of Mr. Borden’s, relative thereto, found on file, 
bears date Feb., 1853, its object being to urge the speedy completion of a 
vacuum pan, for which an order had been previously given. 



20 


A BKIEF SKETCH 


success of the process greatly depended; and this 
apparatus he carried to Europe. The Anglo-Swiss 
Co. was followed, some years later, by others in Eng¬ 
land and Ireland. 

The European establishments for condensing milk 
erected within five or six years are not only faithful 
copies of Mr. Borden's works in the matter of appar¬ 
atus and arrangements, but the rules and regulations 
designed to secure faithfulness in the operatives, and 
best quality in the milk furnished, such as extreme 
cleanliness, such cleanliness as has sometimes been 
characterized by visitors as an “ absurdly fastidious 
neatness,” cooling, or, more properly, curing the milk 
immediately upon being drawn, the character of the 
food (when not grass only), etc., also manifest the 
same close resemblance. 

Although more w r idely known in connection with 
milk, Mr. Borden’s labors have by no means been 
confined to this object, but have extended far into 
related fields. Passing by, with briefest mention, 
pemmican, such as he made for use upon Dr. Kane’s 
Polar expeditions, together with the elegant prepa¬ 
rations of tea, coffee, and cocoa, by means of which, 
with hot water, a cup of the favorite beverage pos¬ 
sessing the highest aroma can be prepared at a 


OF GAIL BORDEN. 


21 


minute’s notice, and also condensed fruit juices, 
made by first separating the rind, seeds, and pulp, 
and abstracting water from the remainder, leaving 
with unimpaired flavor and in a highly concentrated 
and permanent form all which constitutes the pecu¬ 
liar value of any fruit, we come to other products 
which deserve more extended notice. 

During the very period while Justus Yon Liebig, 
surrounded with the elaborate apparatus of his well- 
appointed laboratory at Geissen, was prosecuting 
those researches into the nature of flesh and of ani¬ 
mal juices, which culminated many years later in 
the production, on a commercial scale, of “ Ex- 
tractum Carnis,” Gail Borden, in the wilds of Texas, 
was independently investigating the same problem, 
by methods intensely practical, and aided only by 
such apparatus as could there be born of the “ mother 
of invention.” Borden’s “Meat Biscuit,” then and 
there perfected, described in brief terms, was Liebig’s 
Extractum Carnis , combined with bread. It was 
nothing more, and nothing less. 

Shown at the first World’s Exhibition at London, 
in 1851, it won the highest award made in any casej 
namely, the Great Council Medal. Professor Lyon 
Playfair and Dr. Edward Solly, after full investigation, 


22 


A BRIEF SKETCn 


gave it their unqualified approval; and it was the 
occasion of Mr. Borden’s election as an honorary 
member of the London Society of Arts, in 1852. 

At the very time when Liebig, abandoning all ex¬ 
pectation that extract of flesh might become an 
article of commerce, as a matter of conscience 
thought of recommending to governments its employ¬ 
ment in extreme cases, 1 * Borden’s Meat Biscuit was 
being used as the daily food of travelers over the 
great plains of Mexico. Being both bread and 
meat, the Meat Biscuit was better for the end then 
sought than would have been the concentrated juices 
of meat alone. At a later period, namely, from 1861 
to 1865, when our soldiers needed meat juices sepa¬ 
rate from bread, Mr. Borden, at considerable personal 
sacrifice, undertook to supply the want. Practical 


* “ From 32 pounds of lean beef, free from bones and fat, there is obtained 
one pound of true extract of flesh, which, from its necessarily high price, 
can hardly become an article of commerce; but if the experience of mil¬ 
itary surgeons agrees with that of Parmentier, according to whom, ‘ the 
dried extract of flesh, as an article of provision in the train of a body of 
troops, supplies to severely wounded soldiers a restorative, or roborant, 
which, with a little wine,immediately revives their strength exhausted by 
great loss of blood, and enables them to bear transport to the nearest hos¬ 
pitals,’ it appears to me a matter of conscience to recommend to the atten¬ 
tion of governments the proposal of Parmentier and of Proust.”— Liebig's 
Researches on the Chemistry of Food. 



OF GAIL BORDEN. 


23 


difficulties hindered approach to the high standard 
of excellence which he had proposed for himself, 
different from those attending the desiccation of the 
juices in meat biscuit; difficulties which have been 
uniformly yielded to in the manufacture of Ex- 
tractum Carnis. But, after protracted efforts, he 
surmounted them fully, and succeeded in not only 
reducing meat juices to the smallest bulk, but also 
in retaining their rich flavor, with no taint of the 
bitter or burnt taste characterizing all other similar 
products. 

Since perfecting its manufacture, Borden’s Extract 
of Beef has received the unqualified approbation of 
competent judges, both in the United States and in 
Europe, as “ immeasurably superior in strength and 

flavor to any and all the other preparations” sold 

* 

under the name, and with the guarantee of Baron Lie¬ 
big. But by reason of the expense attending its man¬ 
ufacture from costly beef, and the consequent lack of 
pecuniary inducement to those concerned in its intro- 
tion to general use, its merits have been partially 
eclipsed by the efforts of parties engaged in the 
profitable sale of products made in South America 
from meat of merely nominal cost. This last hin¬ 
drance to its wide appreciation and use, however, 


24 


A BRIEF SKETCII 


promises soon to give way; Mr. Borden having ar¬ 
rangements now well in progress for its extensive 
manufacture in Texas, from meat combining superior 
quality with very moderate cost. To these he has 
given much labor, as well as money, and is bestow¬ 
ing personal superintendence. 

In person, Mr. Borden is tall and spare. The fron- 
tispiece gives a fair presentation of his face—but as it 
is rarely seen—when at rest; for his temperament 
being nervous and his enthusiasm unbounded, the 
countenance in conversation immediately lightens up 
with animation and varied expression beyond the 
skill of the artist to fix. His mental powers are un¬ 
impaired, his thoughts actively pervading his chosen 
field of labor, the preservation of food by practical 
methods. His powers of observation are keen, crit¬ 
ical and appreciative; his faculty for devising and 
adapting means to ends remarkable ; his habits active 
beyond those of most persons in the noontide of life. 
The snows of seventy winters have silvered and 
thinned his locks, forming “a crown of glory,” ac¬ 
cording to Solomon, being "found in the way of 
righteousness;” but their weight rests not heavily 
upon his shoulders. 


OF GAIL BORDEN. 


25 


His varied career lias furnished him with great 
store of illustrative anecdote and reminiscence ready 
at call, and freely used. 

His religion is eminently of the life , manifesting it¬ 
self less in professions than some, but abundantly in 
kindness and courtesy to all, and in active philanthro¬ 
py and hearty co-operation with hand and purse in 
every good work. 

An earnest, unselfish, Christian gentleman, long 
may he be spared to bless his fellow men. 

4 


APPENDIX. 


✓ 


A. (Page 10.) 

A denial, such as is referred to, finds place in the (London) 

“ Evening Standard” of Nov. 25, 1871. It occurs in an article on 
“Preserved Milk,” occupying several columns, and which, in 
the main, is worthy of high commendation for the fullness, accu¬ 
racy and method of its statements. We quote as follows: 

“ We believe that the credit of first condensing, or rather con- 
u centrating milk, is due to a Frenchman, named DeLignac, about 
u twenty-four years ago, from whom the process was obtained soon 
u afterwards by Mr. E. D. Moore, a medical man attached to the 
u Court, who had manufactories in Staffordshire and Middlesex, 
a making concentrated milk, and also a combination of it with cocoa. 
u In 1857, Mr. House, now of 76 Minories, on the retirement of 
u Mr. Moore, took up the business, and on an ‘ improved patent’ 
“ has continued it ever since. It was from Mr. House, through a 
“ Captain Fletcher, that Mr. Gail Borden, of New York, got his 
u idea of preserved or condensed milk; for though Mr. House calls 
u his 1 concentrated ’ milk, we imagine that the process differs little 
u from that of producing 1 condensed ’ milk, the former being ob- 
u tained by evaporation of the water from the milk in open pans, 
“ the latter by evaporation in closed vacuum pans. We mention 
u these facts to show that primarily to a Frenchman, though main- 
u ly to an Englishman, the credit of first producing concentrated or 
“ condensed milk is due, and not to Mr. Borden, or any other* 
“ Americans who may have perfected the process and developed the 



APPENDIX. 


27 


u trade, and seem inclined to take credit for the origination of the 
“ whole matter.” 

The above quotation presents a marked contrast to the general 
tenor of the article of which it forms a portion. Its force lies 
chiefly in illustrating the chronic inability of some of our trans¬ 
atlantic cousins to apprehend that any good thing can originate 
seventy degrees west longitude from Greenwich. 

'We may remark in the first place regarding it, that the “Standard” 
falls into the same pit where our Patent Commissioners floundered 
years ago (see pages 14,15), namely, in recognizing little if any dif¬ 
ference between the results of evaporating milk in open pans, as 
practiced by Mr. House, and evaporation in vacuo, to the credit of 
which Mr. Borden is fairly entitled, he being the first to bring the 
latter process to practical results. By this method alone has con¬ 
densed or concentrated milk become an article of general com¬ 
merce. Made in any other way it was at disproportionate cost 
and of inferior quality, so as to be used only where fluid milk 
could not be obtained. If there is little or no difference in the 
results of the two processes, how comes it that no plain condensed 
milk ( i . c. without sugar) has ever been anywhere made by the open 
pan process, while there are several large manufactories now daily 
supplying scores of thousands of people with condensed milk con¬ 
taining no sugar nor any addition whatever? 

Again, the “ Standard ” is in error in saying that “ Mr. Gail Bor- 
“ den, of Xew York, got his idea of preserved or condensed 
“ milk ” from Mr. House, through Captain Fletcher. Not to dwell 
“ upon the absurdity of the supposition that Mr. Borden “ got his 
“ idea”— the idea of exclusion from atmospheric action during evapor¬ 
ation— from one who practised only the open air method, and that 
accompanied with agitation , (not substantially unlike, we may sup¬ 
pose, except in lack of agitation, to that which suggested itself 


28 


APPENDIX. 


to some worthy housewife of a remote age, who left milk in a dish 
near the fire longer than usual, and found on her return a dry or 
pasty residue which kept better than milk not so desiccated), it 
may suffice to compare dates, b}^ which it will be seen that Mr. 
Borden exhibited condensed milk made by evaporation in vacuo , 
several years before Mr. House was ever heard of in connection 
with milk. 

According to the “ Standard,” Mr. House “ took up the busi¬ 
ness ” in 1857, and conducted it on an “ improved patent.” The 
record also shows that Joseph House got his patent in 1857, for 
concentrating milk by an open air process, with agitation, at a 
temperature of 140° to 150° Fahr., the product to be put in tins, 
sealed, and again heated. 

Mr. Borden’s patent was granted in 1856, both in England and 
in America, a year before Mr. House appears. Thus Mr. Borden 
clearly takes precedence. But the distance between them is 
really greater than appears at first glance; for it should be known 
that Mr. Borden’s process was perfected and practised in a small 
way before he applied for a patent, which was, in the United 
States, in May, 1853, three years and four months before it was 
granted. 

Satisfactory evidence that he exhibited condensed milk at an 
early date, which was made by the vacuum process, and which pos¬ 
sessed rare merit, can be gathered from the current literature of 
that period. 

In the ‘‘Scientific American” (Yew York), issue of NTov. 4, 
1854, in an article about a method of preserving milk in iron 
bottles, by Abbe Moigno of Paris, the editor says: 

“The plan of Gail Borden, jr., of Texas (inventor of Meat 
“ Biscuit), for preserving milk, we consider far superior to this. It 
“ consists in evaporating the water in the milk in a pan excluded 


APPENDIX. 


29 


u from the atmosphere. . . . By this method pure milk can he ob- 
u tained, which can be carried about in small bulk, from one end of 
“ the world to the other.” 

In a subsequent issue of the same periodical, dated August, 
1855, after discussing u solidified milk” made by M. Fadenike, 
London, and the u Lactine,” or artificial milk of Mr. Piesse, the 
editor says: u The most successful experimenter is Gail Borden, 
u jr., inventor of the Meat Biscuit, whose prepared milk we have 
“ used months after it was made, and found it to be as sweet as on 
a the day when it was prepared.” 

In the (New York) u Daily Journal of Commerce” of August 
29,1857, there appeared an article, written by the editor, David 
M. Stone, Esq., who was using Borden’s Condensed Milk in his 
family at the time, and has used it ever since, to the exclusion of 
ordinary fluid milk, from which we quote as below. 

4 

“ FRESH MILK. 

“ The name of Gail Borden, jr., has become historical. Notwith- 
“ standing the youthful suffix to his patronymic, Mr. Borden has 
“ been before the public for many years, and always in the same 
u character.* 

‘ 4 Like other great inventors, he has not always realized pecuniary 
“ success, but his methods of preserving human food have never 
“ failed when fairly adopted, and he has long been regarded as a 
“ public benefactor. Three or four years ago, Mr. Borden showed 
“ us condensed milk which he had prepared, to be used in long 
“ voyages, and he was then sanguine of developing his discovery, 
“ so as to supply families in the city with pure country milk. We 
u had missed him from the city for some time, but it seems he has 


* As Mr. Borden’s father lived to a great age, the son retained the suffix until well 
advanced in life,—past sixty years. 




30 APPENDIX. 

<* 

u not been idle, and we now have the pleasure of chronicling his 
u return, as enthusiastic as ever, and completely successful. Mr. 
“ Borden’s process is exceedingly simple, and ought to be univer- 
u sally popular, for it is exactly the reverse of the system adopted 
“ by the milkmen, of which there is so much reasonable complaint. 
u . . . It is simply to evaporate three-fourths of the water, leaving 
11 all the useful properties of the milk remaining. . . . This is 
u done in a vacuum over a slight heat. . . . The advantages are 
u obvious . . . Mr. Borden has established a condenser (capable of 

0 

u reducing 5,000 quarts per day) in Litchfield county, one of the 
“ richest grazing districts in Connecticut. . . . 

“ The reader will perceive that is not manufactured milk, there 
“ being nothing added to it, and nothing taken from it except the 
u water. . . . The samples we have seen are unexceptionable in 
“ quality and taste, and we regard the experiment as eminently 
“ successful.” 

The “Milk Journal” (London), January, 1872, shows a fuller 
apprehension of the facts than does the “ London Standard,” 
although not quite out of the fog. 

“ Some will have it that M. De Lignao was first in the field, and 
“ that his mantle, which fell on Dr. Moore, is still worn by Mr. 

“ House, who succeeded to the last-named gentleman’s business, 

• • 

“ and that it was from Mr. House that Mr. Borden, the American, 
“ derived his information as to how to treat milk in this way. But 
“ we find Mr. Borden’s English patent takes precedence of that of 
“ Mr. House; and we are obliged to confess ourselves not at all 

• f 

“ removed from the regions of fogginess in the matter; especially 
u as we discover that the condensing in vacuo is to be met with in 
“ the archives of the Patent Office, in connection with Mr. Grim- 
“ wade’s name, as far back as 1817. After this, l Nil propriam 
“ duces quoad mutaria potest’ should be a motto for future milk 
u preservers.” 




APPENDIX. 


31 


(B.) 

NOTES ON PATENTS. 

Among English patents the principal ones and their dates ap¬ 
pear to he 

Newton, 1835. For evaporating “inany known mode,” alludes 
to the vacuum pan as affording a good method of introducing 
warm air through the milk! 

De Lignac, 1847. Evaporating in large, flat, shallow pans, heated 
by steam hath to 186° F.; product put in tins, sealed, and again 
heated to 210° F. 

Grimwade, 1847. Preserving milk by “ the mixing of saltpetre 
“ with the milk, and then exposing it to heat in vacuo, so as to 
“ evaporate and extract the aqueous particles thereof,” and then 
enclosing “ in bottles from which the air has been previously ex- 
“ hausted.” Never put in practice. 

Louis, 1848. Evaporating in shallow pans, with steam jackets, 
etc. 

Grimwade, 1855. Carbonate of soda or potash is first added and 
the milk then evaporated in pans with agitation until a dough- 
like substance is obtained; sugar is then added, and the mass 
pressed by rollers into ribbons, further dried, and then pulver¬ 
ized. Practiced for some years. 

Cooke, 1855. Evaporating in steam evaporating pan. 

Borden, 1856. In vacuo , put into successful practice, and has 
superseded all others. 

House, 1857. Substantially like De Lignac’s, except evaporating 
at lower temperature. 

The first condensed milk made in America, so far as known, 
was by Alden & Co., about 1852, under a caveat; sugar was added, 
and the product was as good as any by open evaporation. 


c>9 

O u 


APPENDIX. 


Blatcliford & Co. a little later prepared some in Ducliess county; 
also Mr. Provost, in Orange county, and some others. As the 
superiority of Borden’s process came to be known, other manu¬ 
facturers adopted it, or abandoned the business. 

Among the curiosities of Patent Records and proceedings, may 
be mentioned the process of one Birdseye, which consisted in 
placing milk in a vessel with cover and pipe attached u to convey 
u the steam and flavor arising from the evaporation of milk through 
u another vessel containing sugar, thereby preserving the pure 
u flavor of the milk.” 

“ What I claim by my invention, and desire to secure by patent, 
u is the process described herein of distilling milk and condensing 
u the same in sugar (!!!) for the purpose of preserving the flavor as 
u set forth.” 

To refuse Borden a patent for a new and highly useful process, 
while granting one for a scheme the folly and absurdity of which 
can hardly be paralleled, seems quite equal to u straining at a gnat 
u and swallowing a camel.” 






























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